In my opinion, Japan has a fairly conservative culture. It’s a rare sight to see someone in short-shorts, bright colors, or a crop top. That’s just how it is. So when I first learned how popular it was to go to onsens (hot springs), an activity where you are, well, naked, I was pretty surprised. And also intrigued!
Throughout my short 14 months in Japan, I’ve now gone to a handful of different onsens. Some areas just have one or two small baths, while others are considered onsen “towns” and have several baths, ranging in size and temperature. The first time I went to an onsen, I was prepared to feel completely awkward. Would I look out of place? Would people stare at the foreigner? Is there an appropriate amount of body hair I should (or shouldn’t have) to blend in? So many questions in my head. Yet, as soon as I walked into the changing room for the first time and saw women of ALL ages and ALL sizes stripping down and going through the motions as normal as if they were at the movies, any anxiety I previously had subsided.
Never once did I feel exposed or uncomfortable. Never once did I feel like I was being analyzed. I actually felt perfectly normal and it was fabulous. And just like that, I understood the onsen hype. The hot water is relaxing on your muscles and body. You are not allowed to carry anything with you (no electronics or books = no distractions), so you can reach true relaxation.
Onsens double as a leisure activity and a healthy way to rejuvenate your body. It’s equally as common to see friends enjoying the relaxing waters together as it is to see a single soaking in the bath. A true onsen won’t be man-made. The water will come directly from the ground and range in temperatures between warm and scalding.
I had been repeatedly told by gaijin friends and Japanese friends alike that Kinosaki was THE place to go for the ultimate onsen experience. So I decided who better to make the 2.5 hour commute with than with my sister. ❤
So I waited patiently until her arrival in April and visit we did. We enjoyed four of the seven public onsens in Kinosaki and they were all lovely in their own way.
Before setting out for onsen number one, we checked into our ryokan. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese hotel. You are given a yukata to wear (think thin, comfy kimono for everyday wear) and can then spend the afternoon and evening walking through the town, dipping in and out of onsens, and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.
Once we were dressed in our yukatas, we grabbed two umbrellas from the front desk, and began our Kinosaki stroll. The town itself is quite small. We visited on a gloomy, April day, but I honestly felt like the rain added to the quiet, calming experience.
Onsen time! The first one we visited was the smallest of the bunch. Just one circular, jacuzzi-looking hole. Besides us, there were only two other women in the entire place. The next one was a little larger with an indoor and outdoor onsen to choose from. Our third one was much bigger. There was a huge lagoon-like indoor bath, along with a beautiful, outdoor rocky cave. But our fourth and final stop was my favorite yet. Complete with an outdoor waterfall to soak next to, a steam room, a gigantic indoor bath, and the best part – a bench made of soft rock that you could sit on and feel the warm water running down your neck and back. Perfect because you never got too hot or too cold. I would’ve happily sat there for hours had we not had to get back to our ryokan for dinner at 6 pm sharp.
Since we were going for a genuine Japanese experience, we had pre-ordered kaiseki, a traditional Japanese meal that comes with AT LEAST 30 dishes. (I lost count after awhile). What we thought was the entire meal actually ended up being just the first course.
Just when we’d think the dinner was complete, our hostess would come back with more and more. I’m not really an adventurous eater…but I tried my best to taste every dish, even if it didn’t look (or smell) super appetizing.
After dinner, we went back out to walk around once more. The river was sparkling in an array of pink light as the lanterns and cherry blossoms created a spectacle that would make any romantic swoon. I absorbed every moment and only wish my iPhone had captured the view in the same way that my eyes did.
Between the walking, the warm onsen water, and all of the food we had tasted, an exhaustion washed over us. When we returned to our ryokan, we found our room transformed. Two floor beds were laid out for us with the fluffiest blankets I’d ever seen.
Who knew sleeping on the floor could lead to such a heavenly slumber?
Come morning, I would’ve preferred to have a longer lie-in, but breakfast was served promptly at eight. When our hostess returned to collect our breakfast plates, the poor girl probably wondered why my food was all untouched. Unfortunately, I have a severe disgust for seaweed and every breakfast dish (except the rice and dessert) must’ve marinaded in seaweed juice. Ugh. If I ever stay in a ryokan again, I’ll remember to forgo the meal package add-on, particularly the breakfast. Lesson learned there!
And with that, our 24 hours in Kinosaki was complete. I may have not been a huge fan of the breakfast (or the customer service at our ryokan, but that’s another story in its own), but I loved the authentic onsen experience and ultimately, that’s what Kinosaki is all about! 🙂
When You Wander 